It’s a seldom yet pleasant surprise to find a good oyster where it’s least expected. Having dined at Hotel Griffou over a year ago, the experience was flat. The design and décor of this underground townhouse turned restaurant found a way to blend trendy and forbidden, creating a most desirable atmosphere. However, the meal left much to be desired. Besides sipping a strong cocktail in their seductive lounge bar, there was no reason to return. Until now.
We recently heard about the Griffou Oyster Cellar Club conceived and executed by the newly hired Chef David Santos. It was time to give this restaurant a second chance.
Chef David Santos has completely taken charge, redoing the menu with a focus on local and seasonal produce where the robust natural flavors of his personally chosen ingredients shine. Besides the daily additions, which are based off of the fresh (and sometimes rare) delivery of the day, Santos has created a Tuesday dinner dedicated to our favorite bivalve. The full menu is available, but it would be a misstep not to try some of these special creations if dining there on a Tuesday evening. Besides, the ambiance of the space still screams for a bite of the little aphrodisiac.
First up-the raw oysters. There were three varieties ranging from $1-$3 a piece. The $1 Flower Oysters from Long Island, NY although slightly more delicate, were in close resemblance to the more common Blue Point oyster from the same region. They were clean, crisp and meaty. The $2 Little Creeks from Hood Canal in Washington were more metallic with a strong taste of the sea. And the $3 Baby Wellfleets from Cape Cod were briny, quite salty, but nonetheless incredibly fresh. All of the oysters were well selected, perfectly shucked, and if not for the rest of the meal to come, a repeat dozen would have been in order.
The cooked oyster dishes consisted of the Roasted Oyster Florentine, served in a ceramic baking dish rather then the shell, and the Oyster Fritter Po Boy in a brioche bun. Both dishes were big on flavor, but with the oyster’s identity still intact. To complement our oyster dishes we shared a bottle of Riesling from Finger Lakes, NY. Another selection of the Chef, it was a beautifully crisp and sweet pairing to the oyster dishes.
Craving a taste of the regular menu, we decided to try a couple other starters. The first was a cumin cured steelhead bay trout belly. The spicy flavoring and the slight touch of cilantro subdued the natural fattiness of the fish. We also enjoyed the homemade cazzaregli pastas with rabbit sausage, big on flavor but incredibly light.
Second time’s a charm for Hotel Griffou. So if dining there before was less then jaw dropping, its time for a revisit. A meal at the hands of Chef Santos will not disappoint. And if you can make it out there on a Tuesday, those oysters and special oyster dishes will leave you craving more.
Hotel Griffou
21 West 9th Street
New York, NY 10011-8939
(212) 358-0228